Saturday, January 4, 2014

Hand Sewing

Lets start with  sewing :
 What is called a saddle stitch is very simple to use. We use a wax thread because it helps hold your stitching tight while you work. To measure the amount of thread you will need just lay the thread long the stitch line and double that thread then double the whole length of that then I add a foot to thread the needles with. Thread a needle on both ends by going in the eye 2' then piercing the thread twice and pull the slack up near the eye then rolling it on your leg or the bench..
  Your stitch line can be crease with a tickler or a molding tool it can also be groove with a number of stitch groover.  Next is to space your stitches a over stitch wheel is handy for that job. Dividers work fine but its a little slow. Stitches should be no larger that 5 to that is the spacing showed in the picture.
  The awl is the key to all of this and it does take a little practice time. I have never bought a new awl that would work out of the box . They need to be worked down and sharpened. When your awl is cutting good it will push in the leather like butter. If you have to force it in it is very hard to get it to come out in the right place and your look will suffer on both sides of your work. I work my on a belt sander till it becomes thin enough to pierce a hole the size of my needle.  the work it on a stone to produce a fine polished cutting edge. This does take some time but it is time well spent.
  If you don't know the saddle stitch it is so simple it's hard to explain.  Just pass the needle through the hole and follow up with the needle on the other side and pass through the same hole and pull tight.  I like to make each hole as I go and I follow the awl as I pull it out with the needle for the reason that the hole is smallest on that side and it is easier to feed the other through the large hole. I do love to hand sew and if I can answer any questions give a shout

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